Can someone tell me What are the hardest and easiest dinos i would fight in dominator league for a 3 day tournament?

I usually dont bother with tournaments and just wait for cot, but I really want a metricanthosaurus. But I have no Idea what Im facing in dominator league. Also, one more question. I have a lvl 10 zalmonodon, with 2400 health and 800 attack. Its cooldown is around 11 hrs. I also have a super tape at lvl 10, with 900 attack and 3k heath. Its cooldown is 7 hrs. Super tape has more heath and attack than zalmonodon (at lvl 10), and yet it has a shorter cooldown. Why is this?

Based on rarity, super tape will have a shorter cooldown even than monostegotops which has similar health, the tournaments are doable with level 20 vips, level 10 s-hybrids (20 for diplo), level 30 to 40 tournament legendaries, level 30 to 40 rare hybrids and super rare hybrids and tourney hybrids at level 10 will work also.

For 3 day tourneys the cutoff for dom is usually around 1.5k or thereabouts. Even less for repeats.

That’s 500 trophies per day, let’s say 35 trophies as an average win, which is around 14 wins per day, half that for 2 runs that’s 7 wins in the morning and 7 wins in the evening, if your using 3 mains youl need 21 creatures, but really your gonna need around 30 creatures if you take in to account a few losses here and there.

Just keep adding depth to your already dominator ready teams which is everything above your level 30 megalosaurus and you will get there in due time. Good luck.


Ok cool. Thanks!

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@Aether_12 put it best.

Depth is key if you don’t do the fodder main fodder strat in tournaments.

If you choose to do fodder main fodder strat then you need very powerful dinos.

Either way, I have almost every sub-endgame dino at L40, and I can easily get away with using my L40 tourney dinos comfortably in low Dom league. I’d say that is the bar to be at.


Planning a dom run based on what the hardest and easiest battles you could come across is not a good gauge strategy whatever you want to call it.

Opponents can vary quite a bit and since different dino’s in similar ferocities can have vastly different stats it really just compounds the issue.

Spit balling here, Some of the toughest opponents are lvl 1 Indoraptor gen 2’s and other dino’s in that ferocity range. Lvl 40 VIPs are not unheard of. Personally I don’t find too many of those to be that difficult or annoying. Why because a block is a block no matter if the opponent has 500 atk or 2000 atk. However i find the health tanks to make the most difficult battles. In general you want to be able to KO an opponent dino with 4 or less hits, KOing a 6k health opponent even though it has low attack with 4 or less hits can be quite difficult especially if they potentially blocked 1. Having to use so many moves to KO the dino leaves you open and makes the battles much harder. JMO

You can see lvl 40 normal legendaries in dom probably about the weakest you see give or take.

In my experience you can get fairly consistent wins and decent trophy counts utilizing the main, main, fodder method.

I like to start out with a Herb health tank, anything over 2k health generally, attack doesn’t matter that much but you may lose some battles if the opponents are Ptero stacked with a herb that has low health but it doesn’t happen too much.
Then i use a decent amphibian, I personally like something with around 700 atk or higher. Lvl 10 Diplosuchus falls into this range.
Then last i use a lvl 1 common carno.

You can also use main main fodder, similar strat/stats with Ptero, carno, ptero with good success

Also splitting up your teams like I outlined gives you more viable teams. Once you burn through your herbs and amphibs, then you can start using your ptero’s and carnos. In tournaments i actually never use any ptero’s on my account, I have enough herbs and amphibs to get the trophy counts i want. Then i can utilize the carno’s and pteros for PvE or whatever if need be.



Talking about using a 3rd party or software to bypass features in this game isn’t allowed on these forums.

And with this being a free to play game, you either have the time and patience to play, or the money to bypass that waiting wall. Several players here have not spent a dime on this game and others (such as myself) pay for the VIP subscription. Both options are viable, and this game actually makes it pretty fair for the free-to-play players. Many players here have started within a year or so and have already amassed a large and powerful collection of dinos.

Life is full of waiting, and nearly everything does not come instantly, money or not.

(And the MAX hatch time in this game is 7 days, which all tourney and tourney hybrid dinos in this game have that 7 day hatch time, so your pteranodon is speedy compared to the late-game dinos)


Btw out of curiosity,
Which dino takes the longest time to hatch in ghe current game?

tournament non hybrids and hybrids

and powerful legendary hybrids like indominus and priotrodon etc

The list is:

  • Tournament dinos
  • Tourney Hybrids
  • Indominus and
  • Indom Gen 2
  • Indo
  • Indo Gen 2
  • Gigankylocephalus

She’s not a full 7 day hatch time. Not like Indom.

Deinocherius is the only tournament creature without a 7d hatch time right.

thx for telling i didnt know

its pretty weak im not sure though

Kentro is also less I beleive

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I know it doesn’t have 7d hatch time. I’m not sure if there’s another.

According to the spreadsheet yes, but idk in game since its been a while since i hatched her

5d 22h , i hatched one a week ago.

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thats like a rajastega hatch time

What is the cooldown for dimetrocarnus lvl 10?

Can I win most of my dom matches with Dimetrocarnus(10)Super Tape(10) Dimetrocarnus(10)?