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Gameplay Guide

Beginner tips
  1. Do not upgrade the Hatchery unless you are level 25+ or you know what you are doing. The gold can be better spent elsewhere.

  2. Your whole gameplay until level 16 is going to revolve around doing the repeatable Tundra quest and farming XP. Do not try to progress the main story beyond Tundra, if you are struggling, your main goal is the most XP per energy spent.

  3. Do not worry about hitting the Fish cap, or about saving gold for the buildings. Hatch as many dragons as possible, use as many of them to train your primary dragons as possible. Use whatever spare gold you have to upgrade Duties, then Treasury, then Fishery. Maxed Duties, ~level 4 treasury and ~level 3 Fishery are recommended.

  4. Do not over-invest into 2* or lower dragons, unless you really have no options.

Minor Spoil

Try not to upgrade your Red, Purple and Blue dragons to 2-star training, unless your red\purple dragons are 3*+ or your blue dragon is a 4*+.

Regular gameplay
  1. Generally after 16 your goal is to keep the balance between your resources. In my experience - you always manage to get more gold then it’s needed to Hatch\Train dragons, so these excesses should be used to eventually upgrade the Breedery>Treasury>Fishery.
  2. Thanks to Dot_Gale, I know that you get a 2nd egg slot before 3* hatching. Having two eggs hatched at once can be useful, but its primary goal is to allow both 1-2* eggs dragons and 3* to be trained at once, you can’t hatch two of the same kind of egg at a time.
3. Duties

The balance of your resources heavily depends on how you train your dragons and on how do you manage the duties. Ideally you should only do the right activities for the right duties, especially for Astrid\Hiccup combat duties, for example:
-If you get a “do X quests”, you do not progress the story. Due to the recent bug, you can not do the repeatable zone node for a “quest” credit. Due of that, it’s recommended to do even the gold\rune quests in addition to fish, because rerolling a Quest duty is not recommended.

-If you get a “get X resources”, depending on your second combat quest, you can progress the story, or you can do a Fish\Gold Limited Time quests.

-If you get both “get X resources” - that’s a good time to try and progress the story. Keep an eye on your dragon cap though, each story mission gives you one 1* fodder.

-If you get a “Hatch X dragons” - you should have nearly-capped eggs ready to be mass-hatched in the shortest amount of time.

-If you get a “Hatch X amount of Y color dragons” and you have the upgraded Hatchery - you can let it get ready in a few hours. However, if you are near the egg-cap in preparation to a standard hatching duty - just brute-force it with random hatching.

-If you get a “Train X dragons” - 4-6 is acceptable, anything beyond that is not. To do this duty - you should have a roster of either fresh 2-3* dragons you may want to breed later, or a roster of 2* dragons that you will dump 1* dragons to. I will explain it in the next section.

-If you get “Level X dragons” - reroll it. Plain and simple. This is what reroll is for.

-If you get “Breed X dragon and Y” - just do it. If you don’t have these dragons… ignore it. Not worth a reroll, you might just get these dragons sooner than you’d level 12 dragons.

-If you get “Breed X dragons” - you can brute-force it by breeding 2-hour 2*+2*, but I would recommend to never breed below 3-hour 3*+2*. This way you eliminate the chance of a 1* trash and get at least a decent 2* fodder for consumption.

If you micromanage the duties properly, chances are that you’ll have plenty of resources and that you will be able to regularly do Hard Chests, as these are the only chests worth doing(Image courtesy of Light Fury of Discord).

  1. While the repeatable zone node doesn’t count for quest duty credit since, it does count for the “Get X Eggs in QUESTS” duty, because otherwise it would be impossible to complete.

  2. Runes are best spent on Dragon Roster extensions, at least ~4-5 of them. Using them to continue the fight or to buy drafts - is basically cheating. Legal cheating, but still cheating - bypassing content. If you are a donator, then that’s your choice, but if you aren’t - then I’d recommend to use your runes to make your management easier, not to cheat in fights or to get some dragons you might not even need. There are lots of folks in Discord, both moderate donators and just extremely lucky newbies, who got 4-5s from their drafts. Problem is that sometimes these dragons are almost worse than 3s hybrid, or even non-hybrid. So learn the game at your own pace and progress naturally through breeding.

Also, seeing how the first Lightfury event works, I’d assume that most future events will be similar, and they use energy for premature event quest reset. While it’s physically impossible for a non-heavy-donator to get the event dragons in one event, and it’s unreasonable to reset unless you can actually complete the whole quest chain - saving runes for such events, or for possible future pvp\clan activities - is still better than blowing them on gambling.

How to Train Your Dragons

First of all you need to realize what do the effects of dragons’ abilities do:

1.There are 3 types of healing: instant healing, healing over time and shielding. Healing and healing over time can be wasted if the dragon has full health, and they can be blocked by “can not be healed” debuff. Shielding, or the “+max health%”, can not be wasted, and, theoretically - should not be blockable by the healing debuff. Which is why the values of these abilities tend to stretch from heavy over time heals to small shields.
Most mid-\end-game fights require heavy healing from your team, very often your dragons will be sniped clean off the board. To make sure that you don’t lose the fight because your healer is down - it’s recommended to have more than one, preferably 3 or even all 5.

  1. Accuracy debuff prevents enemies from actually landing hits, which is one of the ways to prevent sniping, but it also makes you miss with some of the launched tiles if it’s used against you. However, accuracy does not affect any ability casts.

  2. Counterattack(CA). When your dragon has CA, it will launch back a shot for every hit that he receives, which includes the damaging abilities, even mass-damaging ones. This shot will deal a % of that dragon’s Attack, and the damage will be done with that dragon’s color. However, the dragon still takes full damage from the attack, so if it takes lethal damage - it will not counterattack.
    Single CA is not recommended, as it’s unreliable for your dragons, and it’s more or less easy to avoid if an enemy casts it. A mass CA is a great additional source of damage for your team, and it’s a nightmare if you allow the enemy to cast it on themselves. I still do not entirely understand how it works for the enemy, all I know is that it’s one of the worst effects to fight against.

  3. Healing debuff is useful against enemy teams that use mass healing. Like CA, it’s best used against the entire enemy team, though even ensuring that your primary target doesn’t get healed is also useful.
    Healing debuff against your own dragons is lethal. Depending on the fight - it might be even worse than CA, it’s definitely worse if the debuff affects your entire team. Like I said, most fights require your dragons to heal themselves, it’s hard enough to charge the abilities of your dragons and if you later are unable to even land the heal - it can often end the fight prematurely.

  4. The ability Lock effect prevents the dragon from using his ability regardless of his charge.
    Enemies with single target ability locks are annoying, random and dangerous, but generally a fair challenge, and, like mass-CA - can be normally outhealed(if you have backup healers), but mass-antiheal or mass-lock from the enemy requires your own Lock effect, and if you lack it - it might be time to farm instead of progressing.

  5. Effects such as lower damage dealt\higher taken for enemies and higher damage dealt\lower taken for your dragons do exactly what they say they do. They are like CA: valuable when used on a team, not really important when used by a single dragon, yours or the enemy’s.

  6. The Strong Hit(SH) mechanic is very interesting. Like CA - a single dragon’s SH for one turn is barely noticeable, but a mass SH for your team can be very scalable. What it does is turning all your dragons’ color damage into counter-color damage to the enemy. The right way to use this effect, assuming it’s used on your entire team - is to save up some special tiles on the board, preferably for at least 15 tiles launched(a couple of line-poppers). At least - this effect will be more or less comparable to a “mass damage” effect, but if you are lucky or you prepared the board - it can nearly wipe out the enemy team in one fell swoop.

  7. Spirit restoration is also a very useful effect that either restore a fixed % of spirit or improve the spirit generation of your dragons. Like healing - spirit restoration is crucial for the harder fights, as you’ll find out that you do not win by raw tile stacking, but by managing your abilities. Keeping an accuracy debuff on the enemy team can be a difference between life and death. Keeping CA on your team can really punish the enemy for even trying. Buffing your dragons’ damage or increasing the enemy’s damage taken can also improve your raw number efficiency by 30-60%. All of that requires spirit to be maintained, so having a dragon that assists everyone with spirit regeneration - can have much bigger impact than a single damaging attack.

Finally I’d like to say that you should avoid dragons with Ricochet ability. Its damage is low, the second target doesn’t get the debuff if the attack applies one and the second target is random. Abilities that restore health based on the % of damage inflicted or mass-damage abilities are much better scaling.

Hybrids and Breeding

Now that you know what do the dragons do, you must understand what are hybrids and why they can be valuable.

  1. Until 4*, hybrids are directly more powerful than most nonhybrids, both because of the raw stats, and because of the higher amount of ability effects. Normally dragons have 1 effect for 1*, 2 effects for 2-3* and 3 effects for 4-5*. Hybrids allow even 1* dragons to have 2 effects, some 1* hybrids can virtually be more useful than normal 3* dragons. 2* hybrids still have 2 effects, but 3* hybrids can already have 3 effects.
    The rarity gap in the game increases drastically, so while a viable 1* hybrid might not go far, a viable 2* hybrid can easily replace a normal 3* dragon, a 3* hybrid is much harder to get than a standard 3* dragon, but it technically has the capacity of a 4* dragon. Obtaining a 4* dragon is a sub-endgame accomplishment, and 5* dragons are reserved either for the people with very deep pockets or people, who have spent months farming.
    Essentially having the effectiveness budget of an endgame dragon on your “realistically obtainable” dragon can make not only repeatable farming much easier, but also help your progression.

  2. To breed a hybrid, you need to be level 16 and have the Breedery, and you need the matching species. One can never thank Szaddaj enough for his Spreadsheet, it has been edited to very conveniently show who do you need to breed for almost every dragon in the game.
    According to this post, the breeding is not affected by how leveled and trained your parent dragons are. I have growing suspicions of the opposite, but RNG has never been good to me.

  3. The breeding principle is this:
    2s + 2s = 1s 2s 3s 2 hours 4000 Fish
    2s + 3s = 2s 3s 3 hours 6000 Fish
    3s + 3s = 2s 3s 4s 4 hours 8000 Fish
    3s + 4s = 2s 3s 4s 10 hours 12000 Fish
    4s + 4s = 2s 3s 4s 5s 16 hours 16000 Fish
    4s + 5s = 3s 4s 5s 20 hours 20000 Fish
    5s + 5s = 3s 4s 5s 24 hours 24000 Fish

If you breed two normal dragons, your potential results are all star-matching dragons both parenting species and all star-matching dragons of the hybrids.
If you breed two hybrids - your potential results can only be star-matching hybrids. You can not breed hybrids and non-hybrids and, to my knowledge, you can not breed two different hybrids together.

  1. At 4* and beyond, hybrids generally have no distinct advantages over normal dragons, it all comes down to optimizing your team, more on that later.
"Leveling Dragons\Dragon Disposal

Leveling dragons is going to be your primary fish sink, so it’s important to optimize it and know exactly how much fish per level do you pay.

  1. First of all - you need to know that you can consume 10 dragons at a time. Before you ask - no, you do not get any growing experience bonus or any higher chance to upgrade your ability. In fact, regarding the ability - do NOT worry about upgrading it. It is all about RNG, some maxed-out 3* dragons will have a level10 ability, some will have 7+, and it would take the worst kind of RNG for a 4*+ dragon to NOT max out their ability. Feeding a copy of your dragon will give you 25% upgrade chance per copy, but remember that you need a copy of your dragon to train any 3*+ dragon to 3*-training.

  2. The only real benefit of consuming as many dragons at once as possible - is the fact that you save some fish by doing it. For every level, your dragons need 50 fish more per a consumed dragon. It begins at 1500 fish per dragon for any freshly matured dragon(1* training), at 2000 for a 2*-trained dragon and I assume 2500 for 3*. So, it can go up to ~2900 fish per dragon at 1* level 29, ~3400 2* level 29 etc. If you consume multiple dragons, even if these dragons give your consumer dragon 5-10+ levels - they will all have the cost of the current consumer-dragon’s level.
    In other words, let’s say that you consume 5 dragons to get 5 levels for a 1* level 1 dragon. Consuming them all at once will cost 7500 fish. Consuming them one after the other will cost 1500+1550+1600+1650+1700 = 8000 fish.

  3. Seeing as I found it impossible, as a f2p player, to feed 1* dragons to my primary dragons and still have enough fish for anything, and I kept running into max dragon cap over and over, I’ve devised a trick to handle it.
    It doesn’t matter which dragon you consume: from a 1* untrained hatchling or a maxed out 5* trained dragon - it all depends on the current leveling of consumer dragon. It also doesn’t matter which dragon do you train to 1* training, it’s always 2000 Fish + 2 scales.
    This is why I have some 2-3* dragons trained for the Duty credit, and I use these dragons to consume all the 1* fodder of their color at the rate of 1500 fish per dragon.
    In case that’s unclear - you NEVER consume dragons of a color different from your consumer dragon, EVER

The purpose of such “dragon disposal” is to not run into the dragon cap and to fit within the “fish per dragon” budget. How much Fish do you get daily? ~10k from the Fishery. ~5k from the Duties if you are lucky. And ~5k from the Hard chest, assuming that you get one every 2 days. With ~20 hours of 6 energy each, that’s… Realistically about 100 energy daily, with ±3000 fish per 5 energy - 60000 Fish. So about 80k Fish daily. Now, even assuming that you don’t get any story mission 1* dragons and that you only get 2*+ from 3-4* breeding, you still get at least 2 drafts and, from these 20 repeatable quests - ~150 scales. That’s ~20 or more dragons obtained daily. Since you need 2k Fish per hour for breeding and you can realistically spend about 15 hours per day breeding - that’s 30k Fish. Which means that you only have ~50k Fish to spend on dragon disposal. Chances are that feeding your primary dragons is going to cost 2500-3500 Fish or more, you really can’t spend more than 1500 Fish on 1* dragons, as much as you’d want to level your primaries.

Feeding a 2* dragon with 9 x 1* dragons will give give it ~6.2 levels, as opposed to 10 x 1* for ~6.8 levels. You get a bonus for every level of a consumed dragon, so a base 2* dragon gives ~1.2levels, while a level 7(+6.2 levels) - ~1.9 levels. This means that you at least get some “refund” of experience from all these wasted 1* dragons that you can’t afford to feed to your primaries.

One exception that you can afford - are the freshly-2*-trained dragons, who start their leveling at 2000 Fish per dragon. Them you can, if possible, feed with 9-10 1* dragons to get a level 7. If you have both the Fish and the dragons, you can repeat it once again, but I really wouldn’t recommend spending more than 2500 Fish per 1* dragon, unless your Fish economy is far above mine(which is possible for a high-end player, but then again this guide is for beginners\regulars).

Combat Tips

First of all I’d like to say that the combat is random, is supposed to be random and it is a F2P game. You are expected to lose, expected to be motivated to pay for more energy, to pay 100 runes to continue the fight. No matter how you try, these issues can not be resolved by skill alone. This is, if you aren’t going to be a “wallet warrior”, at least you should know what you are getting into.

I’ve spent some time analyzing the combat and trying to think up strategies, but… it all contradicts itself. Counter-colors? Random. Charging up your key dragon? Random. Trying to insert your ability during enemy turn? Unclear, scripted so much that there is hardly any theory needed.
So what can I suggest when everything is ultimately determined by randomness?

  1. Kill order
    I’ve listed what abilities can be dangerous, and it only makes sense that such abilities should be cast as little by the enemies as possible, if you have no means of controlling it yourself, like with an Ability Lock.
    As you may have noticed, enemies recharge 10% spirit every turn, all of them, and they recharge 10% spirit for every tile that hits them, regardless of how much damage it does. Which means that you can scratch these “dangerous” dragons and they will only use their abilities more.
    So the logical solution is to charge your dragons without hitting enemies or by hitting the enemies, whose abilities you can survive.

  2. Team composition
    As I said, having multiple healers is crucial, but a number of effects are no less important. First of all - the accuracy debuff can prevent leathal damage to your team while you charge. Secondly, reducing enemy damage dealt or your damage taken is useful, as long as it’s team-wide. The combination of these effects is necessary to survive the more ridiculous enemy teams.

Likewise, a mass counterattack and a damage buff to your team is the first thing to get if you feel like you lack damage. Enemy damage taken and Strong Hit are secondary, but also useful if you can get them.

Which means that out of 15 total possible ability effects: 3-5 should be reserved for healing, 3-5 most often goes to damage, so the remaining effect slots should preferably have varied utility. While a maxed 3* hybrid team is not endgame-capable, some maxed 3* hybrids in a team of 4-5*-s can still pull their weight.

I’d also like to address unequal teams. That is - teams without dragons of all 5 colors. Such kind of a setup could theoretically work, if you want to stack powerful dragons\rotate the uptime of effects or just counter enemies with less chance of getting counter-color sniped. Whatever’s your poison, here’s how it would work:

*Obviously any matched tiless that do not have a dragon of their color present - will NOT deal damage. Yes, if you dragon is dead, they still deal damage, but if it’s absent, there is NO damage. They, however, will STILL give enemies spirit, so if you hope to just scroll through the board, while the enemy attacks your team with their weak-color attacks - you’ll just end up with enemies spamming their abilities.

*All your dragons(of the same color) gain spirit from a matched set of tiles(of the same color). Yes, this technically means that once you charge one dragon - you might have your whole team charged. On one hand, it allows for smoother transitions, if you are keeping one dragon alive to charge your team, on the other - it might cause overlapping abilities with the same effects.

*The matched tiles will have the damage of all your dragons of the same color. That is - they can 1-2 shot enemies if your entire team is one color. But it comes with the above-mentioned risks of over-triggering enemy abilities. Your dragons’ abilities, obviously, are not stacked, because each dragon has his own stats.

Overall it’s a viable and maybe funny way to play, possibly could work against bosses, but… Personally I prefer control, and with my luck - I don’t want to end up being unable to kill a dragon\having to use abilities on him, just because that part of the board has NO tiles that would damage it.


Optimal teams(check Szaddaj’s roster for raw numbers):

5-star. Endgame Material

The Shifty Murklurker - Purple Thunderdrum

This dragon, for now, is a staple for any end-game progression. Many dragons have abilities that you can’t allow to be cast, especially not in succession. This is the only way to ensure it, and there is no other 5s dragon that can rival Shifty, not even Toothless.

The Chestnut Knight - Green Rumblehorn+Skrill Hybrid

Like Shifty, this dragon is unique - it has an extremely powerful ability of reviving your dragons, which can turn even doomed scenarios into comebacks. His ability to increase both your team’s damage and the damage the enemy team takes - also basically makes your team 50-70% baseline stronger.

The Celestial Royalwing - Yellow Deadly Nadder+Stormcutter Hybrid
There are no truly good 4\5-star yellow dragons, but this hybrid pulls ahead with his ability to control a single enemy’s spirit(which can serve as a soft lock), as well as provide a massive damage taken reduction to your team. In a way - it is a worse Gloomleer with endgame-ready stats.

The Smoldering Slaggert - Red Gronkle+Monstrous Nightmare Hybrid

The primary purpose of this dragon - is the mass accuracy debuff to the enemy team. While it’s not as high as from some weaker dragons, this is the only 5* dragon with such ability. The team damage buff and mass damage also help.

The Frosty Sparguard - Blue Snafflefang
Like Slaggert, the only value of this endgame dragon is its ability to heal… and to give spirit to your lowest dragon.

Two of the endgame dragons have truly incredible abilities, and the other 3 range from directly worse than 3-4star dragons to basically band-aids. Some people may notice that I did not include mass-counterattack. Indeed, mass CA’s primary value is to punish enemy dragons for mass attacks. With Shifty and Royalwing, enemies generally should not be allowed to cast their abilities, let alone mass damage abilities, rendering mass-CA not as “necessary” for endgame. Between an actually valid method of damage mitigation - accuracy debuff, from Slaggert, and “just so” mass-CA from Boltbeak, I’d say the more tactical and durable team would take use Slaggert.

4-star. Cutting Edge

Tricky Two-Heads - Blue Hideous Zippleback
This dragon combines two of the most powerful effects in the game after Shifty’s mass lock: mass-shield and mass accuracy debuff. The accuracy debuff provides immense protection against standard attacks, and the mass shield ignores the “no heal” debuffs" and adds an extra buffer of durability to your team.
On top of that - Tricky gives your entire team, including himself(something not all CA-providers do) a Counterattack, which compensates for his lack of damage.

Gloomleer - Purple Stormcutter
Another unqiue dragon that hits all the right spots - high single damage burst with lifesteal, a single target lock and a team-wide damage taken reduction. This dragon will make your team durable, will castrate the enemy team and will counter dragons that increase your damage taken.

Corpsekeep - Green Deadly Nadder+Stormcutter Hybrid
Fast-charging, lifestealing, team damage buffing, self-cleansing all-rounder. Not brilliant, but pulls his weight in a team.

Brute-Wurst - 3-star Yellow Whispering Death
Why 3-star all of a sudden? 4-star yellow dragons are terrible. This guy’s healing, survivability and spirit regeneration make it into one of the most formidable and valuable dragons for the majority of the gameplay.

Waveshaker - Blue Thunderdrum
Another blue instead of red? Yes. Red dragons are even more terrible than yellow. Just… no words, they are BAD. So I recommend Waveshaker, a dragon that can not only make enemy team take an extra wallop of damage, but also give your most damaged dragon a huge damage reduction buff, very likely saving its life. Ideally you should try to overwrite Gloomleer’s buff with Waveshaker’s and not the other way around.

Technically you could take Bombwelter(4s Yellow Whispering Death) and Fireshrike(4s Red Deadly Nadder), but… that’s less effective and I’m trying to be honest here.

3-star. Ready for Raiding

Anveil - Blue Timberjack+Hideous Zippleback Hybrid
Rarely do games give you something in tutorial that you keep for a better part of your gameplay. Well, kudos to Ludia - they are an exception. This dragon is literally the most powerful Blue dragon after Tricky, partially Waveshaker and Frosty. Once you get it - until you get any of the other 3 - you can forget about the rest.
Accuracy debuff is a rare and huge damage mitigation opportunity. Solid healing to your lowest dragon allows you to come back in a clutch, and the mass damage doesn’t make Anveil any worse.

Brute-Wurst - Yellow Snafflefang
Like I mentioned in Cutting Edge, this guy is just too good. Solid heals, mass spirit recharge and survivability make it into one of the key dragons in your budget team.

Scally-Slander - Green Gronkle+Monstrous Nightmare Hybrid
Do you know what happens when you take mass damage and give it an up to 40% increased damage taken debuff? Nasty things… Scally makes enemies melt, plain and simple, no matter which color tiles do you use.

Torch - Red Typhonoomerang
Do you know what happens when you give your team extra damage on top of Scally’s debuff for the enemies? You turn a 700-power team into a 1000+ power team. And Torch also has mass damage, so…

Fog-Stalker - Purple Deadly Nadder+Stormcutter Hybrid
Last but definitely not least, this guy is like a tiny version of Tricky. A tiny mass shield, a debuff for a single enemy, whose massive damage you’d like to stifle. Slow charging, but very useful dragon.

Yes, you could take Knock-Rocket over Torch, but… it would be less practical and less reliable. Great potential comebacks, yes, but much less valid utility. Likewise, Mob-Clobber could also work instead of Scally, but you HAVE to use Clobber’s mass Strong Hit to its full effect, otherwise it will just be a slightly more durable average 2s dragon. War Cry also works as a temporary replacement for Brute-Wurst, but it’s spirit drain isn’t as reliable as you might think, and you need a solid healer on your team regardless of its level. Flank-Tanker is a very slowly charging healer, but a great healer nonetheless. If you are starting with absolutely nothing - Flank is still a good first step.


Well someone went way out his way to help us all out. Thank you and props for that guide!

1 Like

Thank you :pray: so helpful!

Something I just learned that you might or might not want to factor into your base building advice — there is a lvl 5 in the hatchery upgrades that gives you two egg slots for hatching. It’s not listed right now but it’s the reason that the sequence skips from 4 to 6

And I would love to see a fuller discussion of breeding strategies… so far I’m not putting any $ into the game — not fully committed that I love it enough long-term yet — but I a, finding that even f2p I’m doing just fine getting good dragons, not from the free draft but from the breeders. Have bred 2 4-:star: and several 3-:star: dragons, including a couple of nice hybrids after Anveil

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I have not received any worthwhile dragons from breeding. Feels like a waste of fish and time. I would live to know percentages to get the better dragons


So would I, but RNG is RNG. Knowing the percentage won’t help. Some people have bred a zoo in a couple of weeks, some can’t get a 3* hybrid. I can’t call myself lucky, but I make do with one 3* hybrid and one 4* that I was specifically breeding for. Now I have another 4* that I can work towards, so I can’t really complain.

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Hi there,

I’m new to the game, and I’ve been looking around for like a tier list (pardon me if this is a silly question btw). How do I know which dragons to train/level and which ones are fodder? I’m just not sure what critters to invest in.

Thanks in advance!

I’m in the process of making the best dragon teams(in my opinion) from 2s to 5s. For now I’m done only with 5s, will do the rest tomorrow. I’ve already mentioned not investing too much in red, purple and blue dragons, as you’ll eventually get good ones at the end of the “tutorial”. For any personal advice, I’ll need your current list of 2s and 3s dragons.

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Yeah, but I figure they give us percentages on drafts, so why not breeding? Besides, it never hurts to ask

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Wow, thanks so much for the quick reply! Let’s see…

Serene Stormcutter
Tricky Timberjack
Zesty Zippleback x 2
Wild Wraith
Robust Rumblehorn
Guarded Whisper

3* -

I play JWA, another Ludia game, and investing DNA into the wrong creatures can hurt your progress later on. I just want to make sure I’m not wasting resources.

Thank you!

Well, unless you are a Wallet Warrior, you WILL lose resources one way or another. I used to have such a mention in my Afternotes guide section, but figured nobody would notice it anyway.
Basically unless you invest a fortune and pray to the RNGesus to get the best 4-5-star team, there is hardly any damage to your progress, unless you, like, feed a valuable copy to level your dragon or waste the scales on something sub-par, neither of which should really apply to you.
You will go through numerous 2s, 3s, maybe even 4s dragons before you get the resources, copies and whatnot - to get train them beyond 3s training.

Still, to answer your question directly, your most reliable dragon and something you should focus on - is Flank-Tanker. It takes a while to charge him up, but you are going to need heals, and he is one of the few reliable healers. Of course, 3s green hybrids are technically more powerful, but you won’t go far above 2000 power rating if you don’t have a healer on your team.

Frostfang will be replaced later, so don’t over-invest into him. Still, he is a very solid dragon until you reach level 16.

Fanghook… I hate this dragon, I hate it so much… It took me a while before I could replace him, but… really, he is the worst 3s purple. Like Frostfang, you can level him a bit to progress, but if Frostfang is only replaced at 16, you can definitely replace Fanghook with ANY other 3s purple without a second thought.

I see you don’t have a good red dragon… do not invest into a Zesty Zippleback, you’ll see why later. If you literally have nothing better from red dragons… do not train it to 2-star.

As for the yellow - Serene Stormcutter does the trick as a healing support, you can level it, but even a 3s Pincher, if you’ll get it, is a better long-term option.

One important thing you need to remember - always keep at least one copy of every 2s or 3s dragon. You will be able to breed the dragons later, and these copies are sort of… genetic templates. Sometimes even 2 copies can be bred together for a chance of a specific higher-star dragon, I bred my Gloomleer using 2 Tripfires.

For any other small-matter clarifications - you can use the game’s Discord channel, it’s growing quickly and the veterans are helpful there.

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I know about the quest bug, I hope it will be addressed somehow, either confirmed it’s working as intended or fixed.
As for your power - people were doing 3000+ with a 2500 team, and I can confirm that the 3100+ quests are almost easier than the old yellow repeatable node. If you have healers, chances are you should at least try the scale one, it’s better to start it as soon as possible. What are your dragons besides Anveil?

I was doing the 3150 quests when my power eac in 2400s, give it a shot. Double your strong color and lose the weak color

They are a lot easier imo, I could beat with weaker teams, but the yellow depended on tiles and was a toss up with stronger dragons

Thank you very much for a great guide!!!

Its useful to know cus if theres a percentage then it shoukd increase based onnwhich stars becuase i can bread a 4 star with a 3 star and end up with the same option so it begs the question of whats the point to bread the 4star if the 3 stars makes the same option available ex: breeding axewing the second with muck and tumble a 4 star and 3 star it gives the same outcome as driftclever and muck and tumble 2 3 stars. So the question stands does it increase percentage on 4star and 3 star offspring and lower the 2 star or is it the same which would mean id be wasting my 4 star in the breedery

The guide can be considered obsolete, unpinned and irrelevant. I would need some inspiration to finish it, and I’m struggling to even do the dailies hoping that some day the game would be developed into something less monotonous.

Only popped here to say that I finally watched a “copy” of HTTYD3. And it is… Shrek 3 level of bad. Ice Age 5 level of bad. I hated Lightfury from the very trailers, its design, I knew the movie would turn out bad, but they… really pushed it. Pushed the boundaries of how bad a cartoon can be. It is the ultimate disgrace to the franchise, something that started so pure…

HTTYD1 was the movie I wished I could see in IMAX. One of the very few movies that I truly regret not experiencing properly. A paragon of animation. It looks like age takes a toll, and not just on me, but also on the creativity of the writers. And so HTTYD3 is so bad that I not only wouldn’t pay a penny to see it - I’d wish it was removed from my memory, because god knows I’d rather have an Inception finale than… this.

I guess I have to thank Ludia. At least this game is… non-canon. Because if it was, it wouldn’t exist.

It‘s just sad and pathetic that you took the time to rage about a movie on its game forum. If you didn‘t like the movie - fine. So stop playing the game and quit quietly and don‘t try to ruin the movie/game for someone else!

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Also just the only thing you said was it’s bad and you didn’t like the design of the light fury. I don’t see how “design” of a character ruins a movie and just saying it’s bad… Well has no substance.

My kids loved it, I liked it, ended non cringe worthy. What more can you ask from a kids movie? An Oscar?